Climbing in Kalymnos

When I started asking around where the best place for my first outdoor climbing trip would be, the answer was almost unanimously Kalymnos. Not because it has easy routes (there are a few of those) but mostly because there’s such an abundance of accessible climbing sectors featuring some of the most spectacular and well-maintained routes in the world.

Although the climbing is the most accessible from Massouri (you are literally at the approach to some of the most famous routes in the world) there are sectors all over the island if those gets a little crowded. A scooter will quickly take you almost anywhere. It gets hot during the summer so most climbers visit during the spring and fall and every year there’s a climbing festival in October attracting scores of climbers. However, during the summer many of the sectors are in shade until noon or even early afternoon making it not only possible but very enjoyable to climb during that time. There’s more tourists in town during this time but the cliffs are less crowded.

Goat chilling out under a tree on the approach to the Grande Grotta.

Goat chilling out under a tree on the approach to the Grande Grotta.

When I started researching Kalymnos I couldn’t really get a good overview of how much trouble it would be to get to the where the action is or how far it would be to get to some kind of civilization. In reality all of Massouri and the related climbing sectors are within walking distance.

The Grande Grotta is probably the most iconic sector on Kalymnos, a large quarter dome-shaped cave featuring spectacular formations all over the sides and roof. The approach starts just north of Hotel Philoxenia and after a 20 minute hike up some pretty steep terrain you reach the big cave. There’s a couple of grade six routes just beside it, but what’s really made it famous is the DNA (7a+) and the other overhanging routes going up inside it into the roof. From the same trail sectors Afternoon and Panorama can also be reached. Closer to the main section of Massouri (by the gelateria) the trail to Poets begins, offering vertical grey rock for balancy and crimpy climbing in the 6a-6c range.

Like most Greek tourist-centered island there’s mostly tourist food to be found, but there’s a few gems. The most upscale place is probably Aegean where they actually have a proper chef. It is designated as a tavern and doesn’t serve desserts but the waiters have a proper uniform and they keep it simple by serving local dishes made with a certain degree of finesse. The best dish I had was the grilled fish from the catch of the day.

There’s a decent pizza and pasta joint next to the Climber’s Nest, Sofrano’s has really good crepes (try the one with caramelized apples), sandwiches, coffee and drinks that feel good after a day on the wall. They have a nice shaded terrace overlooking the volcano and perhaps the best customer service of all establishments in Massouri (even though they aren’t exactly the quickest). The biggest surprise though is the gelateria on the way up to Poets sector. It’s owned by an Italian couple and served the best gelato I’ve had since the one in San Gimignano.

Kalymnos is one of the Greek islands furthest to the southeast before you go into Turkish waters. The island of Kos is next doors and has the nearest airport, you can go there either using Ryan Air (and find a hotel or apartment yourself) or find a packaged tours with hotel on Kalymnos. Either way you have to go by ferry from Kos to Kalymnos. The ferry arrives in Kalymnos Town which I’d guess has some highlights but I’d rather just avoid it; there are other much more exciting Mediterranean cities and fortunately there’s a totally different vibe on the other side of the island.

Inside of the Grande Grotta.

Inside of the Grande Grotta.

There’s a number of hotels on the west side, most of which are quite small and none of which can be classified as a designer or luxury hotel (that I know of). Most hotels and restaurants are family run which you can tell from the overall level of (or lack of) professionalism, but at least they feel safe and not like they are out to scam you. Air condition will usually cost extra but you can score a refrigerator and even a small kitchen in some hotels.

There’s two shops with climbing gear in Massouri (the Climber’s Nest and Wild Sport), both sell the excellent climbing guidebook by Aris Theodoropoulos which, among other information, provides data for when each sector is in shade which is very good to know in the summer.

When I visited I was first kind of underwhelmed with the whole experience, but as the days went by I started appreciating the place more and more and now it’s not a question of if I’ll go back, but when. You can get good food, a decent place to live and most of all actually shut out the rest of the world and concentrate on climbing some of the finest routes in the world without giving up everything else. As the time has gone and I’ve climbed more places, I also better appreciate how incredible the rock is. Now, if someone just could open a boutique hotel in Massouri I’d be the first customer.

More information about climbing in Kalymnos can be found in the climbing section of climbkalymnos.com and in the Kalymnos rock climbing guidebook.

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